Ice Screw Security Survey

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* 1. Please proceed with this survey only if you HAVE taken a fall on an ice screw.
Please fill out ONE survey for EACH ice screw that you've fallen on.
If you fell and the 1st, 2nd, 3rd screw did not hold but a subsequent one did, please fill out one survey for each screw. Each survey should take less than one minute.

Did the ice screw that you fell on in this instance hold your fall?

Yes

In the event we have some follow-up questions, your email address would be useful. This will be kept confidential. If you are comfortable providing your email, please do so here:

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* 2. How long do you estimate you fell before impacting the ice screw? AND please estimate fall factor in Comments box.

1-5 feet

6-10 feet

11-15 feet

16-20 feet

21-25 feet

26-30 feet

31-35 feet

36-40 feet

More than 40 feet

ALSO PLEASE ESTIMATE THE FALL FACTOR. Fall factor is the height of the fall divided by the length of rope out (F=h/L).

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* 3. What was the length of the screw that you fell on?

10-13cm

14-16cm

17-19cm

20-22cm

If the screw was not fully inserted, please write how many centimeters of the screw were sticking OUT of the ice and please detail if you clipped the hanger or tied it off.

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* 4. How would you estimate the steepness of the ice section upon which you fell?

20-40 degrees (WI2)

40-60 degrees (WI3)

60-80 degrees (WI4)

80-100 degrees (WI5 and up)

Comments

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* 5. How was the screw connected to the rope?

Load limiting device (e.g. "Screamer")

Quick draw

Alpine draw (e.g. "shoulder length/double/etc sling")

Clipped directly via carabiner

Other (please specify)

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* 6. What style of rope technique were you using? Definitions are:

Single rope--Climbing with a single rope protecting the leader; each time a screw is placed the rope is clipped to it.

Double rope--Climbing with two ropes protecting the leader; each time a screw is placed one of the two ropes are clipped to it.

Twin rope--Climbing with two ropes protecting the leader; each time a screw is placed both of the ropes are clipped to it.

Single rope

Double rope

Twin rope

Comments

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* 7. To the best of your ability/memory, please rate the quality of the ice that you believe the screw was placed in on a 1-10 scale.
A rating of "1" would equate to "compacted snow that I had no faith in"
A rating of "5" would equate to "aerated/detached ice that I had some faith in"
A rating of "10" would equate to "solid, blue ice that I had almost complete or complete faith in"

Comments

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* 8. Did the fall you are describing in this particular situation result in injury? If so, please describe the injuries below.

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* 9. Based on your experience in this particular falling situation, how do you now feel about ice screws as protection?

I have much less confidence in ice screws as climbing protection.

I have less confidence in ice screws as climbing protection.

I have the same amount of confidence in ice screws as climbing protection.

I have more confidence in ice screws as climbing protection.

I have much more confidence in ice screws as climbing protection.

Comments

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* 10. If your attitudes toward ice climbing were at all affected by the fall you are describing in this situation, we'd be interested in hearing and thoughts or details about your change in attitude.